The Travel Diary Continues in Paris. Peep just a preview of what’s to come for Fall:
I was lucky enough to have Marcus with me this time around. It’s really helpful to have someone dedicated and willing enough to travel with me and spend every waking minute in my presence. It’s no easy feat. Crepes make it a little easier:
Tranoi was our first stop, we really fell in love with this Italian sweater line run by some Japanese folks in Florence. Varsity style merino wool cardigans with these happy animals…we had never seen anything like it.
CA4LA also shows at Tranoi, it’s the only way to see them outside of Japan and London. There will be some really cool hats in store for Fall. A wool covered fedora may be in your future.
One of the most interesting things we found during our entire trip in Paris was this fragrance line, Pot-Pourri d’Apothicaire. They specialize in infusing fragrance into crystals and lava rocks. They work just like potpourri but WAY more elegant and sophisticated. Among our favorite fragrances: Tobacco, Figue, Amber and Szechuan Tea. Of course, the home fragrance comes packaged in this amazing (heavy ass**) iron tin. As soon as I figure out how to ship something like this to the US, it will be top shelf in both shops.
We saw some cool shoes at the Opening Ceremony showroom. The guys are really gonna dig on these bad boys. (that little Lanvin foot is mine)
Exciting news! We’re bringing back Odyn Vovk for AW12. With nods to non-seasonal basics like the OV hoodie and Curve Seam T’s, we saw subtle updates in our favorite OV pieces. Be on the lookout for heavy 20 oz fleece outerwear, washed twill cocoon shirts and waxed canvas jackets. Overall the collection looked amazing. Bravo!
Oh hey, dessert!
DRKSHDW was as good as ever. The seasonal color was sky blue, a color I normally despise, but I quite liked it in the accessories.
I really appreciate how well designed each DRKSHDW piece is. So well designed that it can live in a collection for seasons on end, with only changes in fabrication. His jackets have become so identifiable that he’s created a style people refer to as “very Rick.” Every fashion dude in Paris is “very Rick.”
Hey, budddddy.
Off to see Henrik Vibskov. I’ve been following Vibskov since before opening Acrimony. Wild cuts, strong use of patterns and colors, very true to Danish styling. I’m excited that we’ll finally be carrying it in the shop. Bright socks and accessories for those less daring, or long oversized coats for those that can pull it off.
Me? This FUZZY WUZZY has my name all over it.
In between appointments and tradeshows, I was left pretty disappointed with French cuisine. Lucky for me, my favorite Parisian secret is a Mexican restaurant! Walk to the back, behind the kitchen at Candelaria (52 rue de Saintogne). We had tacos, nachos, and of course…MICHELADAS!!
We popped into Capsule Paris to see Chris from Gitman. Surprise! 2 fabrics we didn’t see in NY»
Then off to the MAN show where we saw P.A.M. and some other up & coming labels like Haerfest and Etudes.
This was the first time meeting Chris, from P.A.M. They had a smashed out party (the MAN DISCO) where we drank 10euro vodka tonics with the Japanese guys from Visvim.
The camera can’t go with us everywhere! Til future travels, au revoir!
Still, in my opinion, one of the most underrated labels in women’s fashion, BACK by Ann Sofie Back. As creative director for Cheap Monday and her own main line collection Atelje, Ann Sofie Back is busy pumping out 3 distinctly different looks. Acrimony is still among only 6 retailers in the US to represent her, remember seeing it HERE, » HERE and HERE? With a successful presentation in Stockholm this week, I can’t wait to actually see this collection in person. Personal favorites include the oversized mesh fabric and the heart shaped half suit. BAM!
If you read even just a few menswear blogs or publications you’ve probably seen every single new collection for Autumn 2012 released thus far. The problem with reading through 2000 posts is that half, maybe more than half of the collections are brands and looks you don’t care to see. It’s good to be educated on a broad range of designers, but I don’t think “showing at Pitti” is a simple qualifier for broadcast blogging. If you’re reading this blog, you probably like at least one brand we carry. That means you’ll really enjoy seeing this curated selection of brand previews for AW12.
Japanese label J.S. Homestead, part of Journal Standard, put out a collection consisting of workwear favorites including more repros of the Brown’s Beach Vest. While I admire the detailing in reproduction, I really like this particular hand knit vest paired with gingham and denim classics.
Fall will be the season for knits. Chunky knit sweaters, vests, scarves, beanies, everything knit. These guys from Antwerp are making 100% wool scarves in these bold patterns. I’m really excited to add this to our brand line-up. Howlin’ by Morrison.
Fall will represent our 2nd season with ISAORA. Technical performance in the form of well designed outerwear and layering pieces proves to be one of my favorite recipes for success. Japanese Toray fabric camouflage shells, reversible PrimaLoft jackets, wool jersey henleys, and Porter collab backpacks make for a warm (good looking) winter.
If Fall won’t be your season to splurge on an exceptional piece of outerwear, we’ll have tons of accessories to keep you fitted. Folk, born in London in 2001, has a compact offering of scarves, hats, and belts to complete your wardrobe. Available Fall 2012~
I’m excited to see that Billykirk is bringing back the laptop bag from a few seasons ago. With laptops acting as desktops and most people toting around an iPad instead, it would seem the laptop case would become obsolete. But not this one. We still get calls for this one. We’re also picking up the full leather style, and some new hats and keychains.
Robert Geller’s collection was definitely one of my favorites for AW12. He isn’t doing Seconds anymore, but you’ll see lots of basics (at good price points) infused into the main line. The concept is post-punk. The leftovers of the punk era with some subtle refinements. Polka dot shirts without the combat boots, plaids with short collars and buttoned high, shirt jackets and wide neck henleys.
SILENT Damir Doma is surprisingly adding (more) color to the collection. On a personal level, I love the blacks and neutrals. But I guess a little color is deserving in the winter, especially in his luxe fabrications. There’s a leather jacket sub $900, an update to the Trennus hoodie, thicker cotton weights in the basic long sleeves, and a new backpack everyone is going to want.
I also previewed the women’s collection: this long coat almost came home with me.
Gitman Brothers Vintage was just as impressive as ever. With references to 1979, we’ll see plaids from the Gitman archive as well as 1979 archival patterns from the Portuguese flannel factory. This season Gitman will also introduce the reverse brushed oxford. Brushed on one size, oxford flat on the other. And the shirts can be made with either side out. We’ll be choosing the best variants, I cannot speak for the other Gitman stockists. *wink. Also featured, a number of Japanese fabrics including chambrays, corduroy prints and selvedge poplins. Fall 2012 will represent the biggest assortment of Gitmans we’ve ever featured by season. You will not be disappointed.
As for Wings + Horns, I’m not allowed to post any images, even though they are circulating all over Hypebeast and other blogs. If you want to see images of the full range, pop into the store. In case you were wondering, it looks as good as expected for a Fall/Winter range. Lots of layering basics in updated colors (purple!) and the introduction of a camo print in shirting, polos and a bush pant style. This is the only (good/subtle) camo I’ve really seen so we’ll be buying heavy into it. The cashmere program this year is a little less “basic” with a better hand and more complex knit. You’ll be seeing a great jumper as well as cashmere blend accessories. There’s a black on black on black suede hi-top for Fall that will make your face melt off. We’ll be stocking that as well.
No trip is complete without one of these. You should know I’m obsessed with the Michelada, and have made it my mission to have one in every place I travel. This one comes from An Choi, the asian version of a Michelada made with Vietnamese beer and sriracha instead of Mexican hotsauce. Up next: Paris. Thanks for watching.
More random images from Acrimony travels on instagram»
