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NY Travel Diary #264

If you read even just a few menswear blogs or publications you’ve probably seen every single new collection for Autumn 2012 released thus far. The problem with reading through 2000 posts is that half, maybe more than half of the collections are brands and looks you don’t care to see. It’s good to be educated on a broad range of designers, but I don’t think “showing at Pitti” is a simple qualifier for broadcast blogging. If you’re reading this blog, you probably like at least one brand we carry. That means you’ll really enjoy seeing this curated selection of brand previews for AW12. 

Japanese label J.S. Homestead, part of Journal Standard, put out a collection consisting of workwear favorites including more repros of the Brown’s Beach Vest. While I admire the detailing in reproduction, I really like this particular hand knit vest paired with gingham and denim classics.

Fall will be the season for knits. Chunky knit sweaters, vests, scarves, beanies, everything knit. These guys from Antwerp are making 100% wool scarves in these bold patterns. I’m really excited to add this to our brand line-up. Howlin’ by Morrison.

Fall will represent our 2nd season with ISAORA. Technical performance in the form of well designed outerwear and layering pieces proves to be one of my favorite recipes for success. Japanese Toray fabric camouflage shells, reversible PrimaLoft jackets, wool jersey henleys, and Porter collab backpacks make for a warm (good looking) winter. 

If Fall won’t be your season to splurge on an exceptional piece of outerwear, we’ll have tons of accessories to keep you fitted. Folk, born in London in 2001, has a compact offering of scarves, hats, and belts to complete your wardrobe. Available Fall 2012~

I’m excited to see that Billykirk is bringing back the laptop bag from a few seasons ago. With laptops acting as desktops and most people toting around an iPad instead, it would seem the laptop case would become obsolete. But not this one. We still get calls for this one. We’re also picking up the full leather style, and some new hats and keychains.

Robert Geller’s collection was definitely one of my favorites for AW12. He isn’t doing Seconds anymore, but you’ll see lots of basics (at good price points) infused into the main line. The concept is post-punk. The leftovers of the punk era with some subtle refinements. Polka dot shirts without the combat boots, plaids with short collars and buttoned high, shirt jackets and wide neck henleys. 

SILENT Damir Doma is surprisingly adding (more) color to the collection. On a personal level, I love the blacks and neutrals. But I guess a little color is deserving in the winter, especially in his luxe fabrications. There’s a leather jacket sub $900, an update to the Trennus hoodie, thicker cotton weights in the basic long sleeves, and a new backpack everyone is going to want. 

I also previewed the women’s collection: this long coat almost came home with me.

Gitman Brothers Vintage was just as impressive as ever. With references to 1979, we’ll see plaids from the Gitman archive as well as 1979 archival patterns from the Portuguese flannel factory. This season Gitman will also introduce the reverse brushed oxford. Brushed on one size, oxford flat on the other. And the shirts can be made with either side out. We’ll be choosing the best variants, I cannot speak for the other Gitman stockists. *wink. Also featured, a number of Japanese fabrics including chambrays, corduroy prints and selvedge poplins. Fall 2012 will represent the biggest assortment of Gitmans we’ve ever featured by season. You will not be disappointed.

As for Wings + Horns, I’m not allowed to post any images, even though they are circulating all over Hypebeast and other blogs. If you want to see images of the full range, pop into the store. In case you were wondering, it looks as good as expected for a Fall/Winter range. Lots of layering basics in updated colors (purple!) and the introduction of a camo print in shirting, polos and a bush pant style. This is the only (good/subtle) camo I’ve really seen so we’ll be buying heavy into it. The cashmere program this year is a little less “basic” with a better hand and more complex knit. You’ll be seeing a great jumper as well as cashmere blend accessories. There’s a black on black on black suede hi-top for Fall that will make your face melt off. We’ll be stocking that as well.

No trip is complete without one of these. You should know I’m obsessed with the Michelada, and have made it my mission to have one in every place I travel. This one comes from An Choi, the asian version of a Michelada made with Vietnamese beer and sriracha instead of Mexican hotsauce. Up next: Paris. Thanks for watching.

More random images from Acrimony travels on instagram»

acresf:

Incredibly excited for this line to hit our stores. Interview with Natalie Wood coming soon!

New Year’s Resolutions //

Aside from the usual “work out more” “diet” new year’s resolution, I asked the staff at Acrimony and ACRE/SF to spill their new year’s fashion resolutions. Let’s keep watch to make sure there’s progress being made, no hands in the cookie jar, with fashion resolutions on track for the year. Let this be the year of no regrets…

Jenny:

1) Wear more leather: leather pants, leather sleeves, leather shoes (duh), leather backpacks, leather sunglasses, leather jewelry. Just not all together, obviously.

2) Find and wear a pair of boyfriend cut jeans that pair well with flats and heels. Have them become a staple in my wardrobe.

3) Always wear at least 3 pieces of clothing at all times, it’s not considered an outfit if you are wearing any less.

Lilly:

1) I won’t pass on any (shopping) opportunities when I see something I LOVE. I will buy and not hesitate because that just leads to regret and nightmares.

2) Own a pair of Alaia’s

3) Blog more on http://glamonthestreet.tumblr.com/ (considering the last post was Jul 21)

Marcus:

1) Try new textures

2) Explore fuller silhouettes

3) Wear jeans less often

Jared:

1) Wear more color and less black

2) Organize my life and look

3) Steer away from jeans

Isabelle:

1) Wear more dresses

2) Add more maroon to my wardrobe

3) Break in more denim

Brian:

1) Pay more attention to fit and proportion-Tailored Clothing

2) Wear bold prints

3) Buy Gitman

Peachy keen

The new Minimarket collection for Spring is over the top fun and playful. The Swedish really know how to infuse humor into their clothing, without looking like you’re “funny.” My favorite piece from Minimarket this season is the Puppet Shirt. Perfectly peach, with cut-out elbows and the perfect fit.  

MyPetsQuare

Australian label MyPetsQuare is looking AMAZE for Fall 2011. Both dresses and separates in all nude tones plus a little yellow and a little polka dot make for a really fun way to dress up or dress down with the same few pieces. 

I posted a cute open/sheer/mesh print dress from MyPetsQuare Spring that we never booked. I think Fall is ripe for the picking. Expect to see MyPetsQuare in store soon….

Snaps

Once we ship those packages out, we never know what becomes of those precious pieces. Unlike our in-store customers who regularly frequent the shop wearing their Acrimony purchases, we don’t have the luxury of complimenting our online shoppers on how good they look. Unless you’re Joel. If he were to walk into the shop, we would have to praise him all the time. It would get old. So instead, we can just flip back to this blog post and envy his great sense of style from afar.

Gitman Brothers Blue/Red Plaid, Wings + Horns Anti Fit Pants

Oakland A’s love WHATS UP!

Wings + Horns Pocket Crew

Wings + Horns Double Layer Gauze Shirt, Wings + Horns Bush Pants

Wings + Horns Mac Jacket

Odyn Vovk Preview

Spending some time at the Odyn Vovk studio is always a treat for me. Seeing the collection one on one, without the crowds and the mess of lookers by, puts everything into perfect perspective. I can see every detail and ask questions about construction and quality; something you can rarely do while visiting the shows. Check out the upcoming assortment from Odyn Vovk, Fall 2011.

Mini Market A/W 2010

Swedish label Mini Market has once again outdone themselves for Fall. After winning Elle Magazine’s prestigious Designer of the Year award, the Mini Market sisters have put together an amazing collection of colors, prints and shapes to knock you to the moon. The painted faces are befitting for such an eclectic display of design GENIUS. Shop Acrimony to get the goods.